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The State of The Cork. What is The Best Wine Bottle Closure? |

corknewWine and cork have gone hand in hand for a very long time.  As early as 500BC cork was used as a wine jug stopper in ancient Greece. Since the 18th century, cork has been the preferred choice following Dom Perignon’s success in bottling champagne. Cork helps create an airtight seal, preventing oxidation and early aging. But the last 50 years have seen a growing push for alternative bottle toppers in order to combat dreaded “cork taint”, caused by the presence of the chemical Trichloroanisole (or TCA). Currently, major bottle closure options include natural cork, technical cork, synthetic plastic cork, screw caps, Zork, and Vino-Seal. However, the best wine bottle closure doesn’t even exist yet. Current science, research, and technology efforts are improving our understanding on the interactions between wine, bottle, and cork, and the future holds an exciting time – a time in which bottle closures will be specifically designed to shape the flavor of wine and define a precise aging timeline.

What Percentage of Wine Bottles are Affected By Cork Taint?

If you read five different studies, you’ll hear five different things. Looking at the results from many different sources, it seems the best guess is somewhere around 1-3%. Some studies have found TCA affecting less than 1% of wines, while others have claimed that 8% of all wines are affected.   A 2008 and 2009 survey of judges at the Indy Wine Competition by Christian Butzke, enology professor at Purdue University, showed that fewer than 1% of wines were affected.  However, James Laube of Wine Spectator has reported findings over 7% (article is restricted access to only members online, so I won’t link to it).

In actuality, even if cork taint does affect a sizable percentage of bottles, research suggests many consumers won’t know about it.  A great paper by Berenice Barker of the Cape Wine Academy details several studies that suggest that even trained professionals have a very hard time detecting the minute quantities of TCA that often exist in faulty wines.  In the eyes of consumers, it may appear that the actual rate of cork taint is essentially 0%.

The State of Cork Alternatives

The screwcap was first released in 1973 by French company Le Bouchon Mecanique, designed to eliminate cork taint and protect the freshness in wine. Several Australian wineries were influential in the development and perfection of the closure including Yalumba, Penfolds, McWilliams, Hardys, Seppelt, Brown Bros and Tahbilk. The screw caps were used sparingly until catching on in 2000, when a group of Clare Valley (Australia) winemakers banded together to place a large order for 250,000 closures from French manufacturer Pechiney. Soon after, New Zealand wine makers formed the New Zealand Screwcap Wine Seal Initiative, starting with over 30 winery members and encouraging the usage of screw caps.  Currently, more than 85% of New Zealand wines and over 45% of Australian wines are bottled with screw caps. In the US, approximately 25% of wineries use screw caps.  The 2009 Closure Report by Wine Business Monthly summarizes the data in its annual survey of US wineries:

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Chart from Wine Business Monthly

What is So Special About Cork?

The secret to the success of cork may not be the impenetrable airtight seal, but actually the precise amount of oxygen it actually lets into the bottle. Recent research by the University of Bordeaux has determined that the oxygen transmission rates (aka permeability or OTR) of cork lies somewhere between the higher OTR of synthetic plastic cork and lower OTR of Stelvin screw caps. It has often been said that it is this property of cork which leads to successful aging in wine, and that bottles with synthetic corks will age and spoil too quickly while bottles with screw caps will age slowly or not at all.

Does The Oxygen Permeability of Cork Help The Wine Aging Process? Can Other Closures Do This Too?

Numerous studies suggest that oxygen transfer through the cork plays only a partial role in the aging of wine. Perhaps more important is the bottling process – the dissolved oxygen present during bottling, the oxygen “headspace” within the bottle, and the concentration of the antioxidant sulfur dioxide (SO2). The ongoing research by the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) asked “does wine require oxygen to age or develop? The answer is probably no…”  The AWRI research found that screw caps, with the lowest oxygen trasmission rates among closures, actually were the best at preserving wine.  They also found that the OTR of corks varies widely, and the best corks actually have less oxygen ingress than most screw caps.

There is no doubt that if oxygen permeation does occur in a bottle of wine, it will affect how the wine ages.  The question is, what level of oxygen permeation is best?  The important thing to remember is that screw caps and other closures can be engineered to allow specific oxgyen ingress rates.  If it is proven that certain oxygen rates work best for specific wines, then screw caps or other closures can be manufactured to provide this permeability.

Does The Choice of Bottle Closure Influence The Flavor of Wine?

In the most extreme cases, cork can impart flavors of wood, mustiness, earthiness and cork taint.  On the other end of the spectrum, it is said that certain screw caps, with their reduced oxygen permeability, can cause “reduction” and impart aromas of “rotten-egg” caused by hydrogen sulfide.  Several studies have analyzed the reduction process and this report within Wine Business Monthly does a good job presenting them.

However, when bottle closures behave as intended, the perfect oxygen ingress rate can help preserve  fruit freshness and balance, and help a wine age in full complexity and brilliance.  There are examples that suggest that screw caps can age wine just as well as natural corks.  But the ultimate flavor of a wine is a culmination of the entire process: the grapes, fermentation, chemical treatments, oak and steel aging, bottling and bottle closure.  Each combination will achieve a unique creation.

w3_chart3

Nomacorc sensory description of wines

The Future of Wine Bottle Closures

Its an exciting time as current science, research, and technology efforts are improving our understanding on the interactions between wine, bottle, and cork. In late 2007, synthetic closure manufacturer Nomacorc announced a multi-year project with UC Davis and several other leading wine institutions to understand how oxygen ingress can affect taste, aroma, structure, and color.  Results from studies like this will help bring more refined closure options, each designed for a specific purpose.   Once winemakers can fully understand how oxygen affects wine, they may, for example, look to use a closure with a low OTR to help bring out vegetal characteristics, or a high OTR to quickly produce intense fruit notes.  Wine labels may increasingly include aging timelines with precise maturity dates.  Even better, winemakers may eventually be able to quickly simulate the effects of long term aging within months or several years. Each day we’re all one-step closer to a $10 wine that tastes the same as a 15 year old cellar-aged masterpiece.  I’m ready for it.

Author: Michael Siegler | Category: Articles | Tags: , , |
Buyno Wino says... 1-21-2010 at 4:47pm

I have heard that 1 in 10 bottles are tainted – bringing it up to 10%. Often times corked bottles go un-noticed and if people are trying a bottle of wine for the first time they often assume it is a poor bottle of wine rather than call it corked. I have brought a few corked bottles back to the retailer and they have no problem replacing it or exchanging it.

Michael Siegler says... 1-22-2010 at 10:52am

The percentage estimates on cork taint range all over the place with some people even suggesting 25%. The vast majority of actual studies put the rate below 10% and many closer to the 1%-3% mentioned above.

Cork manufacturers also put the rate closer to 1%. The cork manufacturers go through a lot of preparation, cleansing, and testing prior to shipping out a batch of corks for approval – more than ever before. Wineries go through detailed inspections prior to accepting a batch of corks. Check out http://blog.vellumwines.com/2009_03_01_archive.html at the bottom for a blog posting about this process.

If the actual percentage of tainted corks were 10%, I think there would be a much higher percentage of wineries using screwcaps. Surely the winemakers and their amazing olfactory centers could recognize the taint, even in minute percentages not detectable to mere mortals like me. If the cork taint even just ‘altered’ the flavor of the wine, they wouldn’t put up with it.

Also, consumers would recognize the flaws much more often – even if they didn’t know it was cork taint, they would know it tasted bad – and they would realize “hey, this never happens with screwcaps”. Corks are far-and-away preferred by consumers. Studies have shown negative consumer sentiment of only 1%, and they are the preferred bottle topper to around 75% of the population.

So, although there’s a wide range of cork taint percentage estimates, I have to think the real percentage is closer to 3% than 10% or 25%.

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Eight Reasons the 100 Point Wine Rating Scale Will Go Away |

Why do most publications and retailers use a 100 point scale for rating wine? I found that a lot of other people have had the same question. Some great discussions online, notably at Dr. Vino and Fermentation, show that everyone has an opinion.  I’ve listened to the debate, read the scientific research, and I’ve come to a conclusion: the 100 point wine rating scale will go away.

What is the 100 point scale, anyway?

questionmarkThe 100 point wine rating scale was popularized by Robert Parker and his publication, The Wine Advocate, which was first published in 1978.  It is commonly suggested that Parker’s 100 point system gained popularity because it is simple and that everyone is accustomed to percentages.  But while the 100 point scale appears simple on the surface, when you dig deeper it’s actually quite confusing.

There are currently at least three major varieties of the 100 point scale within the US.  For the Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator  the  100 point scale really only ranges from 50-100, with 51 different possible values for the quality of wine, each point representing a change of about 2% in quality.  Two magazines that began later, Wine Enthusiast and Wine & Spirits, instead rate wines only from 80-100.  Steven Tanzer and the International Wine Cellar rate wines from 70-100.  Publications also often award points differently than one another.  For example, a study by Cornell found that Robert Parker frequently rated wines more than one point higher than Steven Tanzer.  So, a 90 point rating in one publication does not equal a 90 point rating in another.

And then there are the descriptions within the rating scales that explain what each range of numbers means.  Don’t stare at these too long or your head will wobble.  For example, the words  “outstanding, extraordinary, jaw-dropping, overwhelming, rocking, classic” are all actually used by prominent ratings systems to describe wines at various point spreads from 90-100 such as 90-94, 90-95, 96-98, 95-100.  I’ll bet you can’t guess which descriptor goes with which ratings range.  Isn’t this even a little more complicated than the National Threat Advisory level?  Now is Elevated worse than Guarded and Green is worse than Yellow?  Should I just hide now and you can come get me when it’s over?

The 100 point scale is still a new experiment.

timeline

For the rest of the world outside of the US, the 100 point scale is still not widely used.  In fact, many critics worldwide decry the use of any rating system, especially Parker’s, as they feel his bigger, richer, bolder tastes have negatively impacted winemaking worldwide.  Says famous wine writer and critic Hugh Johnson in his autobiography A Life Uncorked:

“If I missed the point of what Robert Parker was trying to do with his percentages of perfection, I made a mistake. To me his numbers game was simply irrelevant. He could score away as he liked, and I could enjoy my wine untroubled. It took years for the realization to dawn that his scoring was influencing the way wines were being made.”

British Master of Wine Jancis Robinson explained her preference to avoid ratings altogether, when possible, by saying:

“But, perhaps strangely for someone who studied mathematics at Oxford, I’m not a great fan of the conjunction of numbers and wine. Once numbers are involved, it is all too easy to reduce wine to a financial commodity rather than keep its precious status as a uniquely stimulating source of sensual pleasure and conviviality.”

In the US, prior to the popularization of The Wine Advocate, wine was frequently rated using the star system, or the 20 point UC Davis scale.  While the 100 point system may have been a great fit in the recent past, it wasn’t always this way, and it won’t necessarily always be this way.

Most people can’t discern enjoyment of wine in increments of 2%.

wineflight

“I know of no one with three or four different glasses of wine in front of him or her, regardless of how good or bad the wines might be, who cannot say, ‘I prefer this one to that one’ “ – Robert Parker.

Everyone knows whether or not they like a specific wine.  But most casual wine drinkers don’t think in terms of rankings or degrees and would have a tough time consistently blind tasting four wines of the same style and ranking them from 1st to 4th with confidence.  And even when someone is able to discern noticeable difference between all four wines, more than likely at some point in the rankings there would be a toss-up:  “I like this one best and the other three are only decent” or “This one is disgusting, this one is delicious, and the other two are about the same.”

Even an expert certainly couldn’t taste 50 wines and arrange them from 1st to 50th from best to worst and then expect to do it the same tomorrow or even five minutes later.   At some point it doesn’t have to be a competition, because at some point it makes no sense.  Isn’t it enough to say “these two wines are both extraordinary” instead of “this wine is about 94 extraordinary, and this wine is 96 extraordinary?”  Even Parker has admitted that “probably the only difference between a 96-, 97-, 98-, 99-, and 100-point wine is really the emotion of the moment.”

Wine enjoyment is subjective – more like art than science.

Wine is Subjective

“While some have suggested that scoring is not well suited to a beverage that has been romantically extolled for centuries, wine is no different from any consumer product.  There are specific standards of quality that full-time wine professionals recognize, and there are benchmark wines against which others can be judged.” – Robert Parker

Wine is very different from any run-of-the-mill consumer product.  There are not many consumer products that are rated and reviewed as extensively as wine.  But here are three that come to mind that are similar to wine:  music, movies, and food.  All of these things clearly fall into the ‘subjective’ category and their enjoyment is truly personal.

All wine critics will admit that wine is a subjective experience.  They may say, however, that a 100 point system still makes sense, because they are simply rating the wine based on their specific palate.  But even if critics think they can discern their enjoyment of wine in increments of 2%, consumers most certainly can’t.  Wine critics should understand that they are rating wine for the consumer.

Oddly enough, critics for both movies and music seem to realize that the experience is subjective and nearly always rate in thumbs up/thumbs down, star systems, or a numerical 10 point scale.  Ratings are only presented out of 100 when showing aggregate average ratings – such as on Rotten Tomatoes for movies or Metacritic for music reviews, which makes perfect sense.  When will the wine industry catch up?

Consumers don’t prefer the 100 point scale.  We use it because it’s there.

Wine ResearchMany have suggested blindly that ‘consumers prefer the 100 point rating scale.’  When did this become self evident?  Consumer purchase behavior is a complex thing.  A recent study by Australian universities and wine institutions looked specifically at how shelf information influences consumer wine purchasing habits.

In 2001 George Akerlof, Michael Spence, and Joseph E. Stiglitz won the Nobel Prize in Economics for their theory on information asymmetry.  The theory explained that the price a consumer is willing to pay is related to their perceived “purchase risk” and their best-guess value of the product.  The Australian wine study set out to determine how specific shelf information could help decrease perceived purchase risk and help increase wine sales.

The study measured purchase behavior through two online experiments involving simulated wine shelves, in which regular red wine consumers were asked to choose a wine for dinner.  The online shelf simulation was earlier validated to show a very high correlation to actual AC Nielsen sales data – so it seemed to closely model the real-world purchasing process.  The study interestingly found that star ratings  had the highest impact on the purchasing process.  While a 90+ rated wine increased selection by about 10%, a five star rating increased selection by 18%.  Any wines rated at two stars (defined as above-average) or higher actually increased sales as much as a 90+ rating.

Would American consumers have reacted differently?  Maybe.  The 100 point rating scale is much more prevalent in the US than in Australia.  But do American consumers prefer the 100 point scale, or do we simply use whatever information is available to help us make our purchase decision?  If the star rating system is more intuitive than the 100 point scale, perhaps retailers would actually sell more wine using this system.

Experts can’t agree – sometimes not even with themselves.

In the fall of 2008 Robert T. Hodgson, a retired statistician turned wine marker, published studies on judge reliability and agreement of results among US wine competitions.  Since then, there has been much debate about his research.  A Wall St. Journal article titled “A Hint of Hype, A Taste of Illusion” and a myriad of blog discussions online further ignited the discussion in November 2009.

Hodgson’s research on judge reliability set out to determine how often a professional wine judge would produce consistent ratings when trying the same wine on separate occasions.  The data from 16 panels of four judges were analyzed and it was determined that a typical judge had a consistency range around +/- 4 points.  That is to say, for example, that on the first blind tasting they rated a wine an 88, while on the next occasion they rated the same wine a 92. These findings mirror the comments of many wine critics, including the quote from Robert Parker noted earlier in this posting that “probably the only difference between a 96-, 97-, 98-, 99-, and 100-point wine is really the emotion of the moment.”

It’s also commonly known that many experts don’t agree in their opinions about wine. Jancis Robinson and Robert Parker historically clashed in 2004 over their ratings for the new 2003 Bordeaux futures.  The wine was the 2003 Chateau Pavie, and while Parker awarded the wine a 95, Robinson awarded just 12 points out of a possible 20 and called the effort “ridiculous”.  A passive-aggressive war of words ensued and critics all over the world took sides.

Interested in the results from an earlier Cornell study on the similarity of Bordeaux ratings between Wine Spectator and Robert Parker, I wanted to see what correlation existed between a large set of Jancis Robinson’s recent Bordeaux ratings compared to Robert Parker’s.  I used the published ratings from http://www.bordoverview.com/ to analyze 2004-2008 Bordeaux reviews (older data was not available on their website).  I found that the results showed, not surprisingly, that the two critics had a very low level of correlation with a “coefficient of determination” of only 21%.  The coefficient of determination is a statistical measure that shows the proportion of the variance (fluctuation) of one variable that is predictable from the other variable. Essentially, looking at Robert Parker’s rating won’t tell you much at all about what Jancis Robinson thought about the wine.

A much smaller rating scale would be more meaningful.

If experts can’t agree, and even have trouble rating the same wine consistently individually, doesn’t this just reinforce the subjective nature of wine and the multitude of variables that determine ‘enjoyment’?  It’s a hoax then to continue to rate at such minute levels of detail.  If the standard of accuracy for a professional wine critic is +/- 4 points, it would make much more sense to reduce the range of possible values.  Even though many 100 point scales go from 50-100, nearly all rated wines fall into the 80-100 range.  An eight point swing is an astonishing 40% of this range.  That leaves a lot of “wiggle-room”.

Does this inconsistency among critics mean that they should stop rating wine?  Of course not – critical input is a great aid to consumers when buying wine – especially when a consumer finds that a critic’s palate matches their own.  However, I believe a reduced-range rating scale would be much more valuable, such as the star system.  As stated by Joshua Greene, editor for Wine and Spirits magazine, “It is absurd for people to expect consistency in a taster’s ratings. We’re not robots.”

Times they are a-changin’.

rating_cardThe wine world has changed dramatically the last ten years with the advent of the internet.  Consumers are becoming better educated.  Through thousands of blogs, and many public wine review and rating websites, the general population now has a place to talk about wine and even get involved in reviewing, rating, and sharing experiences.

The secret is out that the 100 point scale is not ideal and the online wine world has already drastically changed how wine is rated and reviewed.  CellarTracker hosts a website for cellar management and has over one million consumer wine reviews.   Wine.com, one of the largest online wine stores, allows consumers to rate wine using a five star system.  Snooth is another large consumer wine review website, and uses a five “wine glass” system to rate wines.  We’ve built WineMcGee to allow thumbs up, thumbs down, or OK reviews.

As time goes on, I believe the increasing knowledge and maturity of the US wine population and the availability of multiple rating systems will ultimately lead to the demise of the 100 point system as we know it.  I believe the future will primarily bring smaller rating scales (1-10, 5 star, etc) and systems that aggregate multiple rating sources to form true percentage ratings out of 100 – similar to Rotten Tomatoes and Metacritic.  If a major player in the industry were to move away from 100 point ratings, it could be the beginning of change.  If not, the new faces in the industry will continue to evolve and change will still come.  It’s not a matter of if, but when.

Author: Michael Siegler | Category: Articles | Tags: , , |
Sarah Newton says... 1-7-2010 at 2:14pm

This is always a source of worry for me, I am always talking with other bloggers about this scale. It is ridiculous simply because hardly any wine at all gets a point score below 80 so why not simply use a 10 or 20 point scale.

At the end of the day of course a wine relies on personal preference however you can of course find agrement on whether a wine appears well made or has a long finish and in the most part agrement can be reached on nose and flavour profiles. Personally I do enjoy rating wines but whether that needs to be on a 100 point scale is certainly not sure.

Chris says... 1-8-2010 at 11:06am

I hope it goes away, but I am afraid it will take some time. I personally haven’t looked a rating for some time and can’t bring myself to rate a wine myself. I like what I like. I write about some of the wines I try, but this writing is based on the experience of the wine, rather than if it is just a bit better than another one I had…

Anyway, good artile on a pet hate of mine!

Michael Siegler says... 1-10-2010 at 4:46pm

I agree, Sarah. Whatever the scale, use the whole thing.

And Chris, my enjoyment also usually centers around the experience. I think the “consumer focus” is very important here. Parker and others operate as an independent voice for the consumer. Most people are still intimidated by wine. Why use a scale that says “not only is wine complicated, but it’s so complicated and amazing that I can critique it in increments that you can only imagine.” Wait this doesn’t taste like a 91 to you – bah hah hah ha.

Joeshico says... 1-10-2010 at 8:43pm

Don’t think the 100 pt scale will ever go away. As much as I don’t agree with it, it is still a great marketing tool. Most wine buyers are not connoisseurs, they are looking for wines that some wine critic has given a high rating. They are not interested in reading descriptions or any details about the wine.
I too get caught sometimes when wine shopping, especially when seeing something new on the shelves. I will often buy a new wine when I see a shelf talker state that the wine was given a 90+ rating by WS or WA.

Michael Siegler says... 1-10-2010 at 9:09pm

Thanks Joe – part of the Australian study also analyzed sensory descriptions that frequently accompany a wine rating. Going along with the theory on “information asymmetry” described above, the more someone knows about a product, the less the “purchase-risk” and the higher price they are willing to pay.

The theory held true in this regard as well, and sensory descriptions increased wine selection on average of 7.4%. Interestingly enough, this is about the same effect as a good wine rating (according to the study).

I find myself doing the same thing that you mention, and paying attention to the ratings while shopping, even though I’m well-aware that I shouldn’t. But that doesn’t mean that we should use a 100 point scale – it could be a star system, for instance. And just as often I’ll pick a wine that may be on their “staff-picks” list or has been recommended by a friend.

Joshua S. Sweeney says... 1-11-2010 at 1:29pm

I’ve seen the point scale negatively influence consumer purchasing before. I watched someone wander around a large wine shop for almost an hour, seeking out the cheapest 91 pt, 92, pt, 93, pt, etc wines. Their reasoning was why spend more on a wine if they’re the same? The point system suggests an objective measure of quality that simply cannot exist in wine tasting.

A 1-10 number or 5-star system, either one incorporating factors such as availability and price point, would be a much better and easier to use system. Sure, that 500 dollar wine with a 100 point tag looks nice, but for the vast majority of consumers, a 15 dollar, 91 point wine makes a lot more sense. A system that can factor in the shopping mentality, some sort of value vs. quality, would best benefit the average consumer.

Robert Parker is Not the Worst Person In the World says... 1-8-2011 at 6:00am

[...] turns out that however misguided Parker may be (and make no mistake, his meaningless and fraudulent 100 point rating system is the worst thing that’s happened to critical thinking about wine in the 20th century), at [...]

What does a wine rating mean? | The Life of Vines says... 6-27-2011 at 10:08am

[...] Eight Reasons the 100 Point Wine Rating Scale Will Go Away [...]

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